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Hopi dye seed sunflower dye is very sensitive to changes in pH and metal mordants. I prefer pink or purple to grey, but a large range of colors can be made. Alum works as a good premordant for all colors, and I generally use about an equivalent amount of seeds to the amount of fabric that I am dyeing, with water to cover.
My favorite color, a pink, I got by using about 1 cup of seeds, covered with water that had been boiling in a copper teapot, with about ¼ tsp of citric acid. I probably heated it for about 30 minutes, added the fabric, and let it sit for another 30 minutes. Grey can be gotten with higher pHs or by adding iron, neither of which I have done on purpose, but I know it is possible, as greys are generally easier than brighter colors.
It is very important to use a pH neutral soap with this dye, as a lot of soaps are high pH and makes the fabric go greyer. It is also very hard to overdye with indigo or any other high pH dye, for this reason. This is the dye I used for the cactus pads on my cactus quilt.
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